Inside the Great Pyramid of Giza-literally!

I scrape my head on the low roof as I enter, dropping my tiny flashlight. “Ow,” I mumble, annoyed. I search the ground for my flashlight As soon as I find it, I continue on.

               The grey, rocky tunnel continues for what seem like miles. As I climb further, I brace my hands against the rough hewn walls, carved thousands of years ago. Tiny wooden boards are placed on the floor so that you don’t slip. With the angle of the tunnel, a slip like that could mean death. I slowly make my way further downward, every step bringing me deeper into history. The path is lit by dim, flickering lights. I can only see a few feet in front of me. The walls of the tunnel are moist and slippery, as if they are wet. Or that could just be my palms.

               Ahead of me, the downward slope of the tunnel ends, and I can’t see what lies beyond. The tunnel is narrow here, enough to repel anyone with even the slightest claustrophobia. I make my way closer to the yawning opening. As I pass through, I gasp in awe. “The Grand Gallery,” I whisper.

               I am inside the Great Pyramid of Giza, built 4,500 years ago for the pharaoh. As king of Egypt, the pharaoh was placed to rest in these very tunnels. He was then supposed to be sealed off for the rest of eternity. He probably didn’t think that tourists would find their way inside.

               I turn on my flashlight and shine it at the farthest corners of the Gallery. Here, the tunnel gets much wider and slopes upward. The walls, formerly rough, are now as smooth as glass. They meet at the top of the hall to form a pyramid shape, 20 feet above our heads. The whole room is grandiose, fit for the Pharaoh. “Wow,” I say to myself.

               I start to climb higher, toward the Pharaoh’s burial chamber. I get ever more excited the closer I get. Everything looks just like I had imagined it. I search the left side of the Gallery for the secret passage discovered by archaeologists, but am unable to find it. I run my fingers along the stone benches that line the walls. I can see the end of the Gallery. Pretty soon, I am gripping the railing and heaving myself over the large stone slab that marks the end of the Gallery.

               The Pharaoh’s Chamber! It is a tall, boxy room with a low ceiling. A small fan putters away in the corner. Electrical lights flicker and hum noisily. Not quite the vision of grandeur that the name suggests! But I don’t care. I love the room anyway. This was where the pharaoh was buried! That’s what makes this place worth seeing.

               I begin to investigate the room with my tiny circle of light. Soon, I discover the small openings in the walls that have been termed the “air shafts” by archaeologists. They go all the way to the exterior of the pyramid, and may have served a religious purpose.  I also see the huge, broken sarcophagus that lies at the center of the room. I walk over to it. It is completely empty, and one corner is snapped off. Was this where the pharaoh was placed? Maybe.

               I enjoy the room of the Pharaoh for a few more minutes, all too aware that my time here is growing short. No, my time here is out. Taking one last look at the sarcophagus, I reluctantly turn and leave the chamber. Down through the Gallery I go. Down through the little opening in the wall. Back up through the Tunnel. Finally, I step out into the warm light of the Egyptian sun, out of the magic of the pyramid, and back into the real world.  

              

Karnak Temple

This post is going to be about the ancient Egyptian temples of Karnak. They’re located in the city of Luxor, 400 miles south of Cairo. I know I usually write about experiences that I expected to be worse than they turned out to be, but this one will be a little different. I’m going to share my experiences in the Temple Complex, which I was expecting to be great already. Still, it turned out to be every bit as good as I thought it would be. That’s pretty rare. Read on!

Karnak Temple at Luxor:

Did it live up to expectations: Yes

Before Going: 10/10

Reason for Score: It was a very important place historically, and I love Egyptian History.

Why you should:

The Temples of Karnak were one of the highlights of my day in Luxor. The huge complex actually consists of three‘Karnak’ temples and one ‘Luxor’ temple further south. Among them, you can wander for days. I have to admit, it’s pretty cool to stand in the center of religion for the world’s first empire. Another neat thing is the myriad of obelisks scattered around the area, from the golden days of Egypt. These great spires have risen above the landscape for thousands of years. The coolest thing about Luxor is a lone obelisk pedestal in front of the Temple of Luxor. The obelisk that used to stand here was moved to the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Seeing this was one of the best experiences for me, because I had seen the obelisk standing in Paris the year before. It was really amazing for me to see the connection between two of the places I’d been. Also, in the back of the Temple of Amun-Ra, there is another obelisk base that used to hold an obelisk now standing in the square behind the St. John the Lateran (San Giovanni in Laterano) church in Rome, which I had also visited. I looked hard for this one, but was unable to find it. If you manage to, please send me a picture. However, the most visually appealing part of the monument was still, by far, the Great Hypostyle Hall. This is a massive room filled with massive columns. It takes four men linked arm in arm to surround even one. These are made even more impressive by the fact that they’re entirely covered in writing and painting. Someone else famous has been enjoying the columns too- James Bond. The Spy who Loved Me has a scene right in the Hall. No one should miss out on these great sights.

How:

This is one of the only sites I have written about to which I recommend going on your own. It is easy to tour the maze of rooms and courtyards for hours. Any skilled traveler should bring a guidebook to help them navigate this humongous place. I particularly like the Egypt Pocket Guides by Alberto Siliotti. Anyway, the guards/soldiers at the temples are very friendly. They try to help you, and will lead you to some experiences you might otherwise have missed. Be aware that it is customary in this region to give baksheesh, or tips, whenever someone helps you. A dollar or so will usually suffice. Do not be afraid of this, it is worth a few dollars to improve your vacation experience and it is generally worth it.

After Going: 10/10

Reason for Score: There was a daunting amount of wonderful things to see

Email me at michaelworldtravel@gmail.comwith any questions or comments

The great model of the Temple of Amun Ra, in the visitors center

The oddly lopsided pylons, or gates

Did you forget a column there? The unfinished column that is teaching archaeologists how these monoliths were constructed.

The colossal stone pillars in the Great Hypostyle Hall

Don't lose the forest for the columns

Another big obelisk just lieing around

Obelisks, one of the great marvels of Karnak. These extraordinary objects were carved in one solid piece and moved by boat up the Nile.

Me, trespassing on another ancient holy spot. I'm really in trouble if their gods turn out to be real

Somewhere in that general area is the obelisk that I couldn't find!

One of the unique experiences that the guard/soldiers led me to in Karnak, sitting in between the remains of two life size statues

The entrance pylon to the Temple of Luxor, still imposing after thousands of years

Giant statues, anyone?

The pedestal for the obelisk in the Place de la Concorde, in front of the Temple of Luxor

The still operating mosque inside the Temple of Luxor

Another way to offend the Egyptian Gods, me in the shrine of Luxor Temple

The Avenue of Sphinxes, once stretching from Karnak to Luxor Temple over a distance of 1.5 miles

The Great Pyramid-Going Inside

This is going to be a long post everybody, so just hold on. I’ve decided to talk one of the most well known but least understood monuments in the world, The Pyramids at Giza. Now I’m pretty knowledgeable about the Pyramids-I was able to hold my own with a certified Egyptologist- but there are a lot of things you just can’t read in a book. These things I will share with you now. It would’ve helped me greatly, and I hope it helps you. The best three experiences people miss at the Pyramids are:

1. Going inside the Great Pyramid-Before Going: 7/10

Reason for Score: I wasn’t sure just what was so special about going inside.

Why you should: Now, looking back, I really can’t imagine why so many people don’t do this. It truly is an amazing experience. I really got a thrill from being where the famous Pharaohs were laid to rest 4,500 years ago. Also, you’re following in the footsteps of famous people, joining the ranks of such humans as Herodotus and Napoleon, who just may have found their way in through the same passageways you’re in*. Another reason is that it is a great sound byte. You’re friends and family may not know about the other two, less prestigious pyramids. Finally, you don’t want to have regrets. Don’t you want to look back on your Egypt trip and say that you did everything you could have? This is why you should go in the Great Pyramid.

How:Now, getting inside the Pyramid is a little difficult. You’ll have to buy a Great Pyramid ticket at the gate, and only a certain number are issued every day. I recommend that you try to get there before 10 A.M. If you’re on a group tour, you’ll have to talk to your guide in advance about purchasing the ticket. It is most likely not included in your tour fee. I also recommend that you bring a small, handheld flashlight. It is not too dark inside, but it is still better to be able to light up what you’re looking at.

I would post pictures, but you have to leave your camera outside the Great Pyramid’s entrance.

After Going: 10/10

Reason for Score: It is a highly rewarding experience that you should not miss.







Email me at michaelworldtravel@gmail.com with any questions or comments. Please.

*-Assuming that the Thieves Entrance existed in that time, as some evidence suggests otherwise

Above: In front of the Great Pyramid

Going inside the Great Pyramid

Picture from the Camel 'dealership,' Great Pyramid on far left

The Solar Boat, Cairo

2. The Solar Boat
Before Going: 4/10

Reason for Score: I thought before going that to see a boat next to the Pyramids was a waste of time that I could’ve spent on better things

Why you should: I really didn’t want to see the Solar Bark before I got there. The only real reason I went was because it was included on the ticket. However, it was quite an awesome thing. Inside the building is a small table and chairs that have remained in position and undisturbed since President Obama sat in them during his visit to Egypt. This was kind of cool to me, as an American, and a nice addition to the boat. However, the main attraction was the gigantic, wooden, four-millennium old boat, and that wasn’t disappointing. It is very big, but also sleek and slender, and pleasing to look at. It was also mind-blowing to think that this was the structure built to carry the Pharaoh into his afterlife. I came out of this with a very different opinion, and would now recommend it to anybody.

How:You’ll have to buy a separate ticket, so make sure to decide whether or not to go before you enter Giza. If you’re in a tour, consult your guide the day before to see whether or not it is open and if it is included in your tour. Bring a camera, and try photographing it from many different angles.

After Going: 8/10

Reason for Score: I was surprised about how enjoyable it was, and it is a great add on to any Giza tour.

Email me at michaelworldtravel@gmail.com with any questions or comments.

That's not the Solar Boat! It's in the small white building

Yeah, that's just a 4,500 year old wooden boat

The boat, from the upper observation deck

Me, in front of the King's cabin

Me and "Obama's Chairs," in the exact same condition as when he visited.

Riding a camel

3. Riding a Camel
Before Going: 2/10

Reason for Score: I didn’t believe there was any point in it, and it was only a waste of good touring time

Why you should: It was unbelievably fun, and just as cool to be acting like Lawrence of Arabia or any other inspiring desert travelers. We also got a whole lot of great pictures, too. You couldn’t believe how people react when they see a picture of you, on a camel, in front of the Pyramids

How:Be very careful about who you get your camel ride from- many of the people who are out there trying to get tourists will rip you off. If you show any interest at all in what they’re selling, your trip to the Pyramids of Giza will not be a pleasant one. I’ve even heard of people that give you a “free”camel ride-but charge you to get off. Now there are more considerate camel salesmen, and I know of at least one group located behind the Pyramids. It is best advised to ask your tour guide who he trusts, and have him there to broker the deal. The man I went with had also given a ride to President Obama, during his aforementioned trip. If you’re on your own, I recommend that you try to find a trader that is not trying to sell to you, and therefore less likely to rip you off. Also, make sure you sit with your legs crossed over on one side, as you will see me doing in the below pictures. This will keep you from falling off.

After Going: 8/10

Reason for score: Very fun and you get great pictures.

Email me at michaelworldtravel@gmail.com with any questions or comments

On a camel in front of the Pyramids-A very unique experience

The proper way to ride a camel, legs crossed off to the side

Riding out into the desert

All three pyramids, me, and a camel

Say hello to the folks back home

Getting on and off the camel, the most dangerous part

Our guide, Marwa, and I discuss the pyramids, and whether or not they were built by aliens.

Driving in Egypt

I was talking a lot about the crazy driving in Egypt during the last post, and I got to thinking that I should publish some of those photos. These are the best of the Egyptian driving pictures. Enjoy!

 Driving to the Pyramids, just as much of an adrenaline rush as seeing them

 This gives a new meaning to "Yield to Pedestrians"

 You'd better not rent a car here!

 If you think you've seen traffic back home, you're wrong

 Negotiating a business deal... in the middle of the street

Donkey cart, a common mode of transportation

A typical Egyptian street, complete with huge crowds of wandering people

Make your peace with God before embarking on the roads

The Original Pyramids

Saqqara and Dashur, Cairo

I’ve written this article about the original pyramids at Saqqara and Dashur. These Pyramids existed long before the Great Pyramids. If you didn’t know, Pyramids are giant stone structures built to house the pharaoh, or ruler of Egypt, after he dies. They are important because they are engineering marvels, huge in size, even by today’s standards. Most people only know about the 3 famous ones at Giza, but there are several equally important pyramids only a few miles further south, at Saqqara and Dashur. If you are at all interested in Egyptian History, you have to see these places in order to get the rest of the story. The pyramids here are the missing link between the simple stone-bench constructions of earlier times and the mammoth Pyramids at Giza. I was able to cover these all in a single day from Cairo.

The Original Pyramids:

Why You Should Go:

These pyramids rival the famous ones at Giza, and yet barely any tourists know about them. This means that you can have them almost to yourself if you decide to go. Egypt is a ghost town right now in term of tourists, as many people are afraid of being caught up in the turmoil of the revolution. I would encourage you to go.  I found the people to be very friendly everywhere I traveled in Egypt. There is no better time to go, because the hordes of tourists are almost nonexistent.
There are three main pyramids worth seeing; the Red Pyramid (Dashur), the Bent Pyramid (Dashur), and the Step Pyramid (Saqqara). I think the Red Pyramid is worth seeing just for its sheer size. It is the second largest pyramid in Egypt. The Bent Pyramid is unique because the builders had to change the angle of the sides during the construction (see pictures below). I enjoy looking at it because of the strange and elegant shape that this produced. Finally, the Step Pyramid is important because it was the first pyramid ever built. It might also be the first large scale stone structure on Earth. The Step Pyramid complex also boasts the first forty stone columns ever erected by humans. I think that it is just mind boggling that columns, which seem so intuitive to us today, at one time had to be invented.  Also, there is one minor Pyramid that deserves my mention, and that is the Pyramid of Teti at Saqqara. I quite enjoyed going inside this one, because it is one of the first Pyramids to be inscribed with Hieroglyphs and painted. That makes the interior look spectacular, even if the outside now looks like a dirt mound. I also like to think about how incredibly old these pyramids are. They were here when Moses led his people out of Egypt! Going to Saqqara and Dashur is vital for any trip to the Middle East.

How:

 Saqqara and Dashur are both in the general area of Cairo, but you still need a guide/driver with a car to get there. Seriously, Egyptian traffic is crazy. Just riding in a car to the Pyramids was nearly as heart-stopping as seeing them. Stoplights are almost completely non-existent, and the few that are around are ignored in most times. Just as often, camels and their owners weave in and out of traffic. Take a tour. My favorite tour group in the entire Middle East is South Sinai Group. They have a rather confusing website at www.southsinai.com and contracting through www.viator.com is difficult, but it is worth it. They offer tours with your own private driver, coordinator, and Egyptologist guide! However, it is important to know that they don’t run an official tour to all three sites. In order to see all three, you have to talk directly to South Sinai Group, which is pretty difficult. They don’t respond to emails (at least, not when I tried), and the only way to contact them is through their hotline, which is open during Egyptian daylight hours.  I believe that Isram World still contracts through them, but sometimes they don’t notify me when they make a change. Of course, I’m only 13 J. If you do take a South Sinai Tour, ask for Marwa. She is one of their Egyptologists and my personal favorite guide in the entire Middle East. South Sinai was a real pain to schedule with, and a real pleasure to tour with.

I suggest going to Dashur first, before Saqqara. This may seem counterintuitive, because Dashur is farther from Cairo than Saqqara, but there is a perfectly good reason to do so. Dashur is almost completely ignored by tourists, and the site often closes earlier than official closing times. In order to guarantee seeing them both in the same day that you visit Giza, you must go to Dashur first. Also, if you go inside any of the pyramids, I recommend the Red Pyramid at Dashur. Though it smells really bad (you wouldn’t read that in a guidebook! J) it is worth it by far. Bring a small, handheld flashlight for the dim interior.

          Though you can enjoy these sites without a whiff of knowledge about Egyptian history, it does make the experience a little more memorable to know what you’re seeing. Besides, you can’t ask the guides to show you what you don’t know about. I liked the Egypt Pocket Guide, by Alberto Siliotti, about the Pyramids. He has published a series of these pocket guides including ones for Karnak, the Valley of the Kings, and Islamic Cairo.  I also loved the documentary Engineering an Empire: Egypt, from the History Channel, for explaining these pyramids and other Egyptian landmarks.

Don’t climb the Pyramids.

I was very tempted, but apparently it’s illegal because dozens of people have died trying. I feel sorry for those that died, but I personally can’t imagine how you could fall off of a pyramid.

Email me at michaelworldtravel@gmail.com with any questions or feedback. Especially if you’re related to me.

Can you tell why they called it the Red Pyramid?

Going inside the Red Pyramid

The odd looking Bent Pyramid

The Bent Pyramid, which would've been taller than the Great Pyramid, had the builders kept to their original plans

The first stone columns ever built by man, in Djoser's Necropolis

Djoser's Step Pyramid, the first monumental stone construction in history

Were they built by aliens? Marwa was adamant that they weren't, but you can never be sure...

The rather unimpressive looking Pyramid of Teti

The even more ruined Black Pyramid, at Dashur